Into Kvanefjord – Ice, Waterfalls and a Taste of the Wild

After yesterday’s excitement, today started with something a little more familiar – the gym. We managed some time on the treadmill and with the weights before heading off for breakfast. It felt quite strange doing a normal gym session while surrounded by the vast wilderness of Greenland, but I suppose there’s no better way to justify a good breakfast!

After eating, we attended a mandatory AECO briefing. AECO is the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators, and its guidelines are designed to help expedition operators and visitors explore the Arctic responsibly. With such a fragile environment around us, it was a timely reminder that we are guests here and need to tread carefully.

Back in the cabin, we tried on our life jackets to make sure everything fitted properly before our first trip ashore. We also spent some time sorting through the unpacking before heading to Aune Restaurant for a light lunch.

Then came the announcement we had been waiting for – our group was called to the Expedition Lounge. All groups are named after Arctic animals and fish – our group is the Arctic Chars!

Our First Landing in Greenland

We climbed into the RIB and headed towards our landing site beside the ice flow in Kvanefjord. The journey itself was spectacular, but stepping ashore was something else altogether.

The landscape was surprisingly full of life. Greenland may look barren from a distance, but during the short Arctic summer, the ground comes alive with hardy little plants and colourful flowers. The growing season is incredibly brief, so Arctic plants have adapted to make the most of every precious week of summer.

I actually felt quite guilty walking across the vegetation. It looked so delicate, and I became very conscious that every footprint matters in an environment like this. Cones had been placed around the landing area to clearly mark where we could walk, helping us avoid damaging the fragile flora.

We had to be careful of boggy areas that were hidden by some of the densely packed plants, which could have landed us in trouble.

I just took in how beautiful and peaceful it was there. Alongside the plants, there was a lovely waterfall nearby, adding another layer to an already incredible landscape.

Of course, we weren’t simply left to wander around. The expedition crew kept a careful watch, and some carried rifles because polar bears can be encountered in Greenland. It was a rather sobering reminder that this wasn’t a wildlife park – this was their environment, and we were visitors.

We had roughly an hour ashore, and thankfully the weather was beautiful. Blue skies, mountains, ice and waterfalls – Greenland was certainly making an impression.

Exploring Kvanefjord by RIB

Back aboard the ship, we grabbed a quick drink of water before another announcement sent us back to the Expedition Lounge. This time we were heading out on the RIB to explore more of the fjord.

Our guide was Raul, a Spaniard, who proved to be a great source of information as we cruised through Kvanefjord.

A fjord is essentially a deep valley carved by a glacier and later flooded by the sea. Greenland has some of the world’s most spectacular fjords because of the enormous amount of ice that has shaped its coastline over thousands of years. This fjord is 120 metres deep and 27km long.

We headed towards the shaded side of the fjord, and the temperature dropped noticeably. It was very cold, especially compared with the sunshine we’d enjoyed earlier. More waterfalls appeared along the mountainsides, some fed by melting snow and ice high above us.

Then we approached the ice flow.

Getting close to the ice was an extraordinary experience. The scale is difficult to describe – huge mountains rising around us, the sea beneath us and enormous pieces of ancient ice floating nearby.

I felt incredibly small and insignificant.

Every now and again there was a loud crack from the ice. It was a surprisingly powerful sound, echoing around the fjord. Glaciers are constantly moving, although their movement is generally far too slow for us to see with the naked eye. The cracks and occasional movement are reminders that this apparently frozen landscape is actually changing all the time.

We eventually turned the RIB back towards the ship, taking in as much of the scenery as we could along the way.

Reindeer Tartare and Clipfish

Back on board, we removed our life jackets and muck boots – probably the least glamorous part of any expedition cruise!

After changing, we headed to the bar for a drink before making our way to Lindström Restaurant for dinner.

Tonight’s menu gave us a real taste of the region. I had reindeer tartare to start, followed by clipfish for the main course.

Reindeer is an important part of Greenlandic and wider Arctic food culture, while clipfish is traditionally salted and dried fish. The meal felt particularly appropriate after a day spent exploring the Greenlandic wilderness.

Meet the Crew

After dinner, we returned to the bar for an introduction to the ship’s crew.

One by one, the staff introduced themselves and explained their roles on board, including the Captain. It was interesting to hear just how many different people and skills are needed to keep an expedition ship operating safely and smoothly in such remote waters.

By this point, we’d had a full day and were ready for bed, so we headed back to the cabin.

And Then… the Northern Lights

At around 4:20am, there was a brief glimpse of the Northern Lights.

It wasn’t a huge display, but seeing them from the ship in Greenland was still pretty special. After everything we’d experienced during the day – the waterfalls, the mountains, the ice and the wildlife precautions – it felt like the perfect little finale.

Another day in Greenland, and another reminder that this is about much more than simply visiting somewhere new. We’re experiencing a landscape that feels ancient, wild and completely different from anywhere we’ve been before.

And tomorrow, Thursday, there’s more to come…