Reykjavík, Iceland, 190926

🇮🇸 Day One: Reykjavík, Sights, Sculptures & Icelandic Vibes


Directions (“Áttir”) is a striking sculptural installation by Icelandic artist Steinunn Þórarinsdóttir, born in 1955. The work consists of four human-like figures, each cast in aluminium from the same mould. Set atop Icelandic basalt columns, the figures stand facing the four cardinal directions, creating a simple yet powerful connection between the sculpture and the surrounding landscape.
Hallgrímskirkja

Our first day in Iceland began with an Icelandair flight from Heathrow to Keflavík. The flight itself was smooth, and as we approached Iceland we were treated to our first glimpse of the extraordinary landscape below.

Flying close to the Reykjanes Peninsula, we could already see some of the features that make this part of Iceland so fascinating – the coastline, the Gunnuhver geothermal area, the lighthouse and even volcanic landscapes. It was a pretty spectacular introduction to Iceland, and a reminder that we were heading somewhere very different from home.

Keflavík Airport was refreshingly straightforward. Passport control and baggage collection were both quick and easy, and because we had bought our bus tickets while on the plane, our transfer coach was already waiting for us outside.

The journey to Reykjavík took around 45 minutes and was an experience in itself. The road passed through the vast, rugged Afstapahraun lava fields, formed by ancient volcanic eruptions. The landscape is almost otherworldly – dark lava rocks covered in thick green moss, with areas of steam rising from the geothermal ground. As we got closer to Reykjavík, Mount Esja appeared in the distance, providing a stunning backdrop to the city.

Afstapahraun lava fields

Reykjavík – our first night

Our base for the night was the Kvosin Downtown Hotel, right in the heart of Reykjavík. After checking in, we discovered we’d been upgraded to a lovely room, so we dropped our bags off, freshened up and headed out to explore.

Reykjavík is Iceland’s capital and, although relatively small, it has plenty of character. Our first wander took us along Skólavörðustígur, one of the city’s best-known streets. The colourful section near the centre is often referred to as Rainbow Street, with its brightly painted paving leading towards Hallgrímskirkja.

Rainbow street looking towards Hallgrímskirkja

We stopped at Bastard Bar for some tacos and a Hazy Bastard beer – a pretty good way to start our Icelandic holiday!

Hazy Bastard NEIPA

From there we headed to Hús Máls og Menningar, a wonderfully quirky combination of bookshop, bar and live-music venue. The place has a relaxed, bohemian feel, with books lining the walls and live music creating a great atmosphere. We sampled Iceland’s famously distinctive Brennivín, the country’s traditional schnapps. Often nicknamed “Black Death”, it’s a potent spirit traditionally made from fermented grain or potatoes and flavoured with caraway. Let’s just say it was an experience!

Hús Máls og Menningar

Hallgrímskirkja at sunset

Next came one of Reykjavík’s most recognisable sights – Hallgrímskirkja.

Standing 74.5 metres tall, this striking Lutheran church is the highest church in Iceland and one of Reykjavík’s most distinctive landmarks. Designed by Icelandic architect Guðjón Samúelsson, its dramatic architecture was inspired by the natural landscape, particularly the striking geometric forms of basalt columns created as molten lava cools.

The church is named after Hallgrímur Pétursson, an Icelandic poet and clergyman best known for his Passion Hymns, a collection of religious poems.

We arrived as the sun was beginning to set, and the fading light made the pale concrete building seem to glow. Standing in front of it with the colourful Reykjavík sky behind us was one of those moments when you realise the holiday has properly begun.

Sunset on Hallsgrímskirkja

A drink before dinner

We wandered on to Kaffibarinn, one of Reykjavík’s well-known bars, and took advantage of happy hour. John decided to try a Gull, one of Iceland’s popular beers. Unfortunately, it didn’t exactly make it onto his list of holiday favourites!

By now we’d had a good first taste of Reykjavík – colourful streets, volcanic landscapes, Icelandic schnapps, live music, impressive architecture and a sunset over the city.

We’d already booked a restaurant for the following evening, so with our first day in Iceland drawing to a close, we made our way back to the hotel.

Iceland – The Beginning of a Much Bigger Adventure 🇮🇸

On Monday, we’ll be leaving Reykjavík and travelling on to Nuuk, Greenland, where we’ll join an expedition ship. From there, the ship will take us down the west coast of Greenland before crossing the Labrador Sea to Canada. We will then follow the dramatic eastern coastline southwards, travelling through Labrador and Newfoundland before eventually reaching the end of our expedition.

So, although we are excited to explore Reykjavík, we know this is really the opening chapter of a much bigger adventure – one involving volcanic landscapes, remote communities and some pretty extraordinary scenery.

And it doesn’t end there.

After we leave Canada, we will embark on yet another journey – this time heading to Rome, before making our way down to Sorrento.

And this part of the adventure has a very special reason. My son, Josh will be getting married to his partner, Angel, in Sorrento. So, after travelling through some of the most remote and spectacular landscapes on the planet, we’ll swap volcanos, fjords and remote communities for Italian sunshine, beautiful scenery, food, wine and, most importantly, a family wedding. I’m so lucky to get the opportunity to do this.

❤️✈️🌍

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  1. Jenny Roydhouse

    What a fabulous adventure, cannot wait for the next bit x

    Like