A Birthday Morning in Sarajevo
We woke a little later than usual today—perhaps the city sensed it was no ordinary morning. It was JC’s 60th birthday, after all, and the day began with warm wishes from family and friends before we headed down for a relaxed buffet breakfast. With no rush and a full day ahead, it felt like the perfect start.
Wandering into the Heart of the Old Town
Sarajevo’s Old Town, or Stari Grad, is the kind of place that invites you to slow down. Cobbled streets, Ottoman-era architecture, and the gentle hum of early activity set the tone as we wandered in.
At the centre stands the iconic Sebilj Fountain, a wooden Ottoman-style fountain built in 1753. Legend has it that anyone who drinks from its water will one day return to Sarajevo—a comforting thought as we lingered nearby.
Bridges, Rivers, and Layers of History
We crossed the Miljacka River via Novi Most, pausing for photos of the striking Sarajevo City Hall. This grand Austro-Hungarian building, once destroyed during the Bosnian War in 1992, has since been meticulously restored and stands as a symbol of resilience.
Nearby, the Sarajevo sign offered a fun photo opportunity—though we all agreed it would look even better illuminated at night.
Continuing west along the riverside, we passed the elegant Emperor’s Mosque, one of the oldest in the city, originally built in the 15th century during Ottoman rule.
A little further on lies the historic Latin Bridge—the site forever linked to the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in 1914, an event that triggered WW1.
We looped back across Ćumurija Bridge and paused at the so-called Franz Ferdinand Corner, reflecting briefly on how this quiet street once changed the course of global history.
Markets, Crafts, and Local Flavours
Back in the Old Town, we wandered through lively pedestrian streets, picking up a few fridge magnets as keepsakes. In Kazandžiluk, Coppersmith Alley, traditional craftsmen still hammer copper by hand, a practice passed down through generations.
A Street Shaped by Craft
Kazandžiluk—often called “Coppersmith Alley”—is one of the most atmospheric streets in Sarajevo, tucked within the historic heart of the old bazaar, Baščaršija. Kazandžiluk gets its name from kazandžije, the traditional coppersmiths who have worked here since the Ottoman period (15th century onward). Back then, each trade had its own street, and this was where artisans hammered, shaped, and engraved copper into everyday items like coffee pots (džezva), trays, and decorative plates.
Living Tradition
What makes the alley special is that it’s not just historical—it’s still alive. Many small workshops continue the same techniques passed down through generations. As you walk along the narrow, stone-paved lane, you’ll often hear the rhythmic tapping of metal being shaped by hand.
What You’ll See Today
- Rows of tiny shops filled with polished copperware
- Craftsmen working at open doorways
- Souvenirs ranging from traditional coffee sets to intricate engraved pieces
- A blend of authentic workshops and tourist-friendly stalls
Cultural Significance
Coppersmith Alley reflects Sarajevo’s Ottoman heritage and its long-standing role as a meeting point of cultures. It’s also closely tied to Bosnia’s famous coffee culture—many of the copper items you see are still used in preparing traditional Bosnian coffee.
A Tip for Visiting
If you’re browsing, look for handmade pieces rather than mass-produced ones—authentic items often have slight imperfections that show they were crafted by hand. And don’t hesitate to chat with the artisans; many are happy to explain their work.
It’s a short street, but it captures a huge amount of Sarajevo’s history, craftsmanship, and character in just a few steps.
We paused at Caffe Ayna for a comforting glass of Turkish tea, then continued our culinary exploration at Buregdžinica Ahmo. I opted for sirnica, a delicious cheese-filled pastry, while JC chose a classic burek—rich, flaky, and packed with flavour.
A Glimpse of Ottoman Luxury
We briefly stopped by the Isa Begov Hammam Hotel, a beautifully restored Ottoman bathhouse turned boutique hotel. Though we didn’t go inside, it was easy to imagine the centuries of travellers who had once passed through its doors.
Beer, Wine, and Bosnian Hospitality
Our afternoon continued at Sarajevska Pivara, one of the oldest breweries in the region, dating back to 1864. In the taproom, we tried a “cut beer”—a local speciality blending light and dark brews into one surprisingly smooth drink.
Back in the Old Town, we stopped at Wine Not?, where we sampled a couple of excellent Bosnian wines. The country’s wine scene is still something of a hidden gem, with indigenous grape varieties like Žilavka and Blatina offering distinctive flavours.
A Birthday Dinner to Remember
Dinner took us to Devri. Despite the Old Town being relatively quiet, every table was reserved—but a kind waiter offered us a spot with the condition we’d vacate by 7pm. Perfect timing.
The meal was outstanding. I had a beautifully cooked steak, while JC enjoyed squid—both dishes full of flavour and expertly prepared. It felt like the ideal birthday celebration.
Nightcaps and a Sweet Surprise
We ended the evening at Birtija, where we sampled a couple of local liqueurs—smooth, warming, and a fitting end to the evening.
Back at the hotel, a final surprise awaited: desserts laid out for us, along with a thoughtful message from the staff wishing JC a happy 60th birthday. A small gesture, but one that perfectly captured the warmth and hospitality we’d experienced throughout the day.
Reflections on Sarajevo
Sarajevo is a city of contrasts—East meets West, past meets present, tragedy meets resilience. From Ottoman fountains to Austro-Hungarian architecture, from world-changing history to simple moments over tea and pastry, it offers something deeper than just sightseeing.
And for a 60th birthday? It couldn’t have been a more memorable place to celebrate.
jctraveller 
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