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Bosnia and Herzegovina, day 1, 020526 – Trebinje


✈️ An Easy Start from London

We set off from Heathrow Airport and, unusually, the flight actually left a little early—always a good sign. The journey itself was calm and easy, and the British Airways crew made it extra special by wishing JC a happy 60th birthday. Such a small gesture, but it really meant a lot.


🚖 Arrival in Dubrovnik & The Border Crossing

When we landed in Dubrovnik, we got a message from our taxi driver saying he might be delayed due to border controls. He arrived about 30 minutes late, but it didn’t bother us at all. He shook our hands and we were soon on our way.

Google translate was well used today

The drive quickly became part of the experience as we headed towards Bosnia and Herzegovina. He talked into his phone to translate to us using a special app, and kept us up to date with our journey. The border crossing was slow—around half an hour to leave Croatia and another half hour to enter Bosnia and Herzegovina. Still, we felt quite lucky when we saw the queue heading the other way into Croatia… miles and miles of traffic. I guess that this might be due to the new Entry Exit System, as Bosnia and Herzegovina is not in the Schengen area.

The border crossing from BiH into Croatia – the traffic queue must have been about two miles long. Thankfully we were heading in the opposite direction

🌞 First Impressions of Trebinje

We arrived in Trebinje on a beautifully warm, sunny day. Our driver dropped us at the South Gate of the old town, and within a couple of minutes we were at our hotel.

There was a slight language barrier when we checked in, but nothing that a bit of patience and smiling couldn’t fix. Before long, we were settled in and ready to head back out and explore.

The South Gate of Stari Grad

🍷 Wine in the Old Town Square

We made our way to Stari Grad Trebinje, the heart of the town, and found a lovely little spot—Passage Pub.

Local wine for €2 a glass? It would have been rude not to. We sat there for a while, just watching the world go by—one of those simple, perfect travel moments.

A mosque in Stari Grad (Old Town)

🍽️ A Memorable First Meal

Dinner definitely lived up to expectations. JC is still talking about his goulash with potatoes (apparently the best he’s ever had), and my chicken with local kaymak (cheese) sauce was rich, creamy, and absolutely delicious.


🌉 Riverside Views & Evening Wanders

Our hotel sits right on the Trebišnjica River, with a lovely view towards the Arslanagić Bridge. It’s such a peaceful setting, especially as the evening light softens everything.

Arslanagić Bridge

We took a gentle wander through the old town before heading back. Trebinje is full of character, with its mix of Ottoman, Mediterranean, and Austro-Hungarian influences. The white stone buildings and narrow cobbled streets give it a timeless feel.


🛏️ A Welcome Early Night

After a long day of travelling, we didn’t last long. An early night felt well deserved—and very welcome.

Old clock tower viewed from our hotel balcony

🏨 About Hotel Restoran Humsko

Hotel Restoran Humsko was a great little base for exploring the town. Its location is ideal—right by the river and only a short walk into the old town.

The rooms are simple but comfortable, and although communication can sometimes be a bit tricky, there’s a genuine warmth and friendliness that comes through. We had a great loft apartment with views over the old town to one side and the river to the other.

The restaurant is well regarded locally, serving traditional Herzegovinian dishes—hearty, flavourful, and very much in keeping with the food we enjoyed during our first evening.

Overall, it’s relaxed, well-located, and full of character—exactly what you want for a stay in Trebinje.

However, we are not entirely sure whether the hotel side is still “trading” as we couldn’t find it on any web searches at all, although the restaurant seems to be doing very well. I think they’ve honoured our booking that was made in June last year.


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