Rough Seas, Partridgeberry Muffins, and the Quirky Charm of Bonavista

There is nothing quite like being jolted awake in the early hours by rough seas slamming into the hull, accompanied by a roaring thunderstorm that came with lightning that lit the whole sky. It was a very sleepless night.

After a night spent hoping for calm waters, dawn broke to reveal our vessel safely anchored off the historic town of Bonavista.

Morning Wanderings: Ghosts of Peak Season and Local Lore

Our daily schedule divided the ship into two groups for an excursion to the local UNESCO Global Geopark. As our party was assigned to the afternoon shift, we had the entire morning to explore the town independently. At 10:00 am sharp, we boarded the tender boat and glided toward the harbour under a crisp, blue sky.

Visiting Bonavista during the shoulder season offers a serene version of the town. With peak summer tourism wrapped up, the streets were blissfully quiet, revealing the raw character of the coastline:

• Skippy the Sea Serpent: Greeting us right by the boardwalk was “Skippy,” a whimsical wooden sea creature crafted by local artisans that keeps watch over the tides.

• Harbour Quarters Inn: Locked up tight for the winter season—putting a temporary dent in our hopes of grabbing a quick local draught pint before lunch!

• Historical Quirks: Farther down the path, we encountered a pair of historic cannons, replica wooden stocks, and the grim marker of “The Whipping Post,” providing a striking window into 18th-century naval justice and colonial hardship.

• Walkman’s Gate Pub: Another cosy local watering hole that had shuttered its doors for the colder months ahead.

• Oceanic: A surprisingly trendy hybrid establishment combining a speciality coffee shop with a licensed cannabis dispensary—a modern twist on small-town coastal hospitality.

We continued our stroll along the coastal path out towards Newton’s Point, where we came across an intriguing promotional plaque. In 2018, car maker Chevrolet invited twelve Canadian families to document twelve distinct road trips to determine “The Most Road-Trippable Town in Canada”. After voting had closed, Bonavista claimed the inaugural title. Looking out from the sea defences over the churning Atlantic waters, the town’s scenic charm made the accolade feel well deserved.

Retail Therapy and the Ultimate Partridgeberry Muffin

Fortunately, not every business in town had hibernated for the winter! A few fantastic local spots were open and eager to welcome off-season travellers:

• Matteo’s: A delightful boutique overflowing with artisan crafts. We picked up a few handcrafted glass souvenirs and fridge magnets to commemorate the stop.

• The Lovely Grand Bakeshop: Hands down the culinary highlight of the morning. We ordered fresh coffee and a freshly baked partridgeberry muffin. Native to northern regions and known elsewhere as lingonberries, these tart berries produce a rich, tangy filling that made the muffin incredibly moist and delicious.

• Bonavista Brewing Co. & The Ryan Premises: We also paused to admire the local craft brewery and the nearby Ryan Premises National Historic Site—a series of 19th-century merchant buildings that preserve the story of Newfoundland’s historic cod fishing trade.

Nature Takes the Reins

Our itinerary for the afternoon was set to cover the highlights of the Discovery UNESCO Global Geopark, including:

1. The Chimney at Spillars Cove: Stupendous coastal rock formations and isolated sea stacks sculpted over thousands of years by unrelenting waves.
2. Dungeon Provincial Park: A dramatic collapsed sea cave featuring two natural rock arches carved out by ocean currents.
3. Cape Bonavista Lighthouse: The iconic 19th-century red-and-white beacon that guided mariners around the perilous headland.

Spoiler alert: The North Atlantic had other plans for us.

While chatting to a museum curator about the rich symbolism of Newfoundland and Labrador’s provincial flag—with its striking design representing the island’s history, coastal sea life, and northern heritage—word arrived from the bridge: The afternoon UNESCO excursion was officially cancelled.

Rising gale-force winds were kicking up severe swells inside the harbour, making tender boat operations increasingly unsafe. Returning to the ship proved to be a real adrenaline rush; the tender was tossed around after leaving the harbour and alongside the access platform, requiring impeccable timing from the expedition crew and a firm leap from every passenger to get safely back aboard. Feeling relieved, we shed our coats and hiking boots in the cabin before heading up to the dining room for a warm, restorative lunch.

Speeches, Milestones, and an Early Arrival

By mid-afternoon, the Captain took to the tannoy to announce a change to our journey. Given the worsening weather forecast, the ship was steering directly for St John’s, initially aiming to dock around midnight on Tuesday instead of Wednesday morning.

We finished our packing and chilled in the cabin. On the TV we watched a compilation of photos and videos of our trip, which we will receive an online link to in a couple of weeks. A lovely reminder of our journey from Iceland to Greenland to Canada.

At 5:30 pm, the Captain hosted an insightful presentation in the main lounge, sharing some extraordinary stats regarding our current journey and the vessel’s overall track record:

• Current Expedition: We had already covered 2,330 nautical miles on this leg alone.
• Global Milestone: Over the preceding twelve months (spanning 21 September 2025 to 22 September 2026), the vessel had logged an astounding 65,591 nautical miles (over 121,000 kilometres)—a distance equivalent to circling the globe at the equator three times over!

During his address, the Captain lightheartedly explained the previous night’s sudden jolt. At precisely 2:37 am, the vessel had ridden over a wave trough and executed a classic nautical “bellyflop”—slamming flat against the water with enough force to rattle every fitting on board and wake the entire ship.

The Captain then introduced 162 hard-working crew members, who lined up to receive a tremendous standing ovation from the lounge. From engineering to galley operations, their steady hands keep the ship running smoothly through the harshest seas imaginable. Naturally, we raised a hearty glass to their efforts.

We capped off the evening with an exquisite dinner at Lindstrøm. In a refreshing break from modern digital menus, we were handed elegant printed cards featuring a special 130th-anniversary menu. The dishes honoured legendary polar explorers—including the ship’s namesake Roald Amundsen, Fridtjof Nansen, and master chef Adolf Lindstrøm himself.

Making fantastic time through the swells, we pulled ahead of schedule and safely tied up in St John’s at 9:30 pm—a welcome harbour after a wild voyage!

Expedition cruising is unpredictable by nature, but between warm pastries, dramatic coastal landscapes, and a world-class crew, these maritime adventures make for unforgettable memories.