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Tallinn, Estonia, day 4, 311224

Well what a fabulous day to end the year. We started off with a breakfast and champagne before heading out into the Estonian winter.

We decided to go to Creative City first thing, but it was freezing cold and snowing. It wasn’t the best day to be wandering around, but I wanted to see the street art and this was our only opportunity. We saw many different murals on the walls of buildings whilst trying to keep warm.

https://telliskivi.cc/en/

The snow finally stopped and we headed back towards the centre. We stopped at Long Leg Gate (Pikk jalg) which is an access point for those in Lower Old Town to get to Toompea and the Upper Old Town. From there we headed back towards the main square and took a few photos of the world’s oldest public Christmas tree.

Away from the main square again and we saw the Russian embassy. Outside there were barriers with many signs stuck on them. The signs were protesting about the war in Ukraine. I guess that there were 50 plus signs at least. It made me feel really sad that, on a day when many people will be celebrating New Year’s Eve and ringing in the new year, many Ukrainians will simply be glad to be alive.

We were feeling a little peckish so looked for somewhere to eat. We went for an Eastern European restaurant called Peppersack, not far from the main square on a pedestrianised road called Vana-Turg. The restaurant is quite big and is situated on two floors. The placed is decorated in the medieval style with wooden tables and chairs. The staff are also dressed in period costumes. We were attended to as soon as we walked in, and shown to a table upstairs. Both of us went for hot wine and a chicken, pearl barley and porcini mushroom soup. Both were delicious and warmed us up nicely (it was zero degrees outside).

Once we’d eaten we headed back out into the cold afternoon, and walked towards Viru Gate. This stone structure was built in the 14th century as part of Tallinn’s city wall defences. After a few centuries passed, the entrances to the Old Town were widened, which meant that several gates were demolished. The Viru Gate was one of the gates, although the corner towers still remain today.

We walked back again to the main square, taking in the loveliness of the place, surrounded by many beautiful buildings. We decided to look for somewhere that we could have a drink and keep warm. We didn’t want any old place, we wanted somewhere with character.

It didn’t take long to find somewhere pretty unique. Located under the Town Hall, Raekoja Plats, is a tavern called III Draakon (Third Dragon). As we walked in, some people were just leaving and we grabbed their table near a small window, which had a large pot with onions growing in it. It was dark inside, only lit by candlelight. This medieval tavern sells either light or dark beer and hot wine. I went for the hot wine and JC joined the queue. The main server, dressed in medieval costume was quite raucous and loud, and cheeky too. Our order cost “13 money” but he said he would add another 1 on for the taverner’s service. With the amount of people coming and going, they must make a fortune in tips alone.

After we’d had our first drink, we liked the place so much that we had to have another. Even though we’d eaten, JC decided to order some food . The menu consisted of elk soup, seasoned beef sausages and pigs tails. JC ordered the first two items. He asked for a spoon for the soup, but the same guy as before said he just had to drink it from the bowl.

https://www.kolmasdraakon.ee

We sat watching the world go by, and observed a family who had ordered some food and drink. The four late teen/twenty-something girls and older male sibling were all wearing a traditional looking blouse or shirt; it looked as if it was maybe national dress. As they were queuing I asked their father what the shirts represented. He said that they were Ukrainian and had been to mass at one of the churches in Tallinn. They traditionally wear the embroidered blouses when they attend mass.

Ukrainians in traditional dress

It was getting dark so we decided to not have another drink, although we were tempted and enjoying the unique atmosphere of the Third Dragon. We were booked in to the Italian restaurant for a set menu so thought we had better take it steady.

We returned to the hotel for a chill out for a couple of hours before getting ready to go out. We had a cocktail on the hotel bar and then we were ready to go.

It is only a ten minute walk to the restaurant and we arrived early. As we couldn’t get in at that point, we went to Freedom Square, which was just around the corner from La Prima. This was the main attraction area for the New Year celebrations and we could see that it was all set up for the evening. Freedom Square is a large area used by pedestrians and for people to meet up. The monument to the War of Independence is also located there – a large column with the Cross of Freedom on the top. The square has been known by other names, such as Heinaturg (Hay Market), Peetri Plats (Peter’s Square), and Võiduväljak (Victory Square) among them. It was first named Freedom Square in 1939 until 1948. The name was readopted in 1989.

It was freezing cold so we walked around a bit before heading back to the restaurant. We arrived just before 19:00, and had a lovely greeting from the restaurant staff. We were seated at a table for two, and given a glass of fizz to start the evening’s proceedings. Most people arrived at, or just after 19:00 but you could tell by the empty tables that some people were late. The staff did hang on for so long in case the others were running late, but in the end they had to start serving the food. The full menu can be seen below. The only thing I didn’t touch was the oyster shot, which was exactly what it sounds like. It was a single oyster swimming in a Bloody Mary drink. Not for me, so instead I had the beef tartare.

There was also a live singer who I named Julio Estonias. He sang some great classic songs – Italian and English, including my favourite “Volare” as well as other tunes by Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack singers. He looked very dapper in a red velvet jacket as he walked around the tables whilst singing. There was a lovely atmosphere and the staff made us feel very special.

Ion Dodon aka Julio Estonias
The chef lighting some spirit which was in the risotto course

The evening finished at 11pm, and we were given a gift bag from the staff before we left. It contained a bottle of Prosecco, two plastic glasses, sparklers, some kind of banger firework, salami snack and a cheese snack. We also met the chef who we thanked for a great evening.

We followed the crowd down to Freedom Square and found a decent spot to watch the New Year’s Eve celebrations. Some domestic singers, people I’d never heard of, were part of the entertainment. Lasers began at about ten minutes to midnight and then there was a countdown to midnight. Although fireworks are not supposed to be part of the evening, they were still being lit in the area around the square.

Then it was time to head to the hotel. It had been a fantastic day and one I will not forget.

https://news.err.ee/1609552786/tallinn-to-welcome-2025-with-concert-and-drone-show

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