A Slow Start to a Snowy Morning

We started the day slowly, helped by the fact that it had begun snowing heavily again overnight. Big, soft flakes fell steadily, instantly making everything feel quieter and more magical. With no rush, we eventually wrapped up warm and headed out around 11am.

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The Royal Palace in the Snow

Our first stop was the Royal Palace area. We didn’t go inside, but we did shelter for a few minutes under the entrance to the Treasury to escape the snow. From there we walked past the statue of Charles XIV Johan and over towards The Royal Palace, Kungliga Slottet, itself. The guards stood perfectly still in their thick wool coats, looking absolutely frozen but incredibly composed.

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Festive Finds & The Story of the Dala Horse

Not far away was a Christmas decoration shop we’d spotted the night before, and we couldn’t resist popping in. We left with a Swedish Santa, the perfect festive souvenir. A short walk later, we discovered the Wooden Horse Museum, Runstenen, which tells the story of one of Sweden’s most recognisable symbols — the Dala horse.

The Dala horse originates from the province of Dalarna in central Sweden. Originally, these small wooden horses were carved by woodworkers during long winter evenings, often using leftover wood. They were first given as toys to children, rather than decorative objects. Over time, the horse became a symbol of strength and loyalty, reflecting the importance of horses in rural Swedish life.

The now-famous red colour became popular in the 19th century, influenced by the deep red paint used on traditional Swedish cottages, made from copper pigments found in the Falun mines. Decorative patterns were added using a folk-art style called kurbits, a hand-painted technique that turned each horse into a small piece of art. Today, the Dala horse represents Swedish craftsmanship, tradition, and national pride.

Sadly we couldn’t take photos in the museum so you can only see the view from the outside, pictured above. 

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Stortorget at Christmas

Next up was Stortorget, the oldest square in Stockholm and the historic heart of Gamla Stan. Surrounded by tall, narrow buildings painted in warm shades of red, yellow, and ochre, it’s one of those places that instantly feels steeped in history. In winter, especially with fresh snow on the rooftops, it feels even more atmospheric.

Stortorget has been the centre of city life since the Middle Ages, originally serving as a marketplace where merchants traded goods from across the Baltic. It has also witnessed darker moments in Swedish history, most notably the Stockholm Bloodbath of 1520, when dozens of Swedish nobles were executed following the Danish king’s coronation. Standing there today, with a Christmas tree in the square and lights glowing in the early afternoon gloom, it’s hard to imagine such events.

Today, the square is home to cafés, small shops, and museums, including the Nobel Prize Museum. In December, the Christmas decorations, stalls, and tree transform Stortorget into a festive meeting point, with people stopping for photos, hot drinks, and a moment to take it all in. We lingered for a while, soaking up the atmosphere, before continuing our snowy walk through the old town.

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Warming Up at Lytka

By now we were ready for lunch, so we headed to Lytka. JC ordered soup, a spinach and cheese pie, and a warming glass of glögg.

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Walking Through Stockholm’s History

After another quick browse in a Christmas decoration shop, we ventured further out into the snow. We passed the Royal Armoury and the Swedish Parliament building, Riksdaghuset, before crossing Norrbro (North Bridge) and leaving Gamla Stan. Built in 1807, it’s Stockholm’s only remaining bridge with stone vaulting. The bronze Egyptian lions on the north side, added in 1926, were a striking detail.

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Stockholm City Hall

Crossing into Norrmalm took us onwards to Stockholm City Hall, which is on another island, Kungsholmen. Stockholm’s stadshus is even more impressive in person, sitting right on the water’s edge. Knowing it hosts the Nobel Prize banquet adds to its sense of grandeur.

Stockholm City Hall is one of the city’s most iconic sights, standing proudly on the waterfront of Lake Mälaren. With its deep red-brick façade and green copper tower topped by the Three Crowns, it’s instantly recognisable and incredibly photogenic. It was hard to capture the essence of the building due to the heavy snowfall.

Built in the early 1920s, the building reflects Sweden’s pride in craftsmanship and design, blending traditional influences with a distinctly Nordic feel. Even from the outside, it feels grand without being overpowering, perfectly suited to its waterside setting.

We didn’t go inside, but simply walked around the exterior and courtyard.

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Afternoon Drinks & A Change of Atmosphere

A quick stop at the Pickwick Pub followed for a drink and a toilet break — efficient but not exactly friendly. Much better was our visit to the Grand Hotel, recommended earlier by a lady in the Christmas decorations shop. The Cadier Bar was warm, elegant, and buzzing, and a charming bartender called Alvar took great care of us.

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Christmas Lights & Evening Views

By late afternoon it was dark. The snow had eased, and the Christmas lights on Strömbron Bridge were glowing beautifully as we made our way back. We climbed a few steps for a different view of the Royal Palace which felt quietly magical. Guards were stood freezing cold.

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Dinner, Drinks & an Early Night

Back at the hotel, we stopped by the Martini Bar, where the barman recommended a neat shot of Aquavit Gammal Norrlands to warm us up. It certainly did the trick. This was followed by dinner at Bistro Bestik, a two minute walk from the hotel, which was the perfect end to the day — fabulous food and great service. With tired legs and full bellies, we headed back to the hotel for an early night.