The day began with the kind of hotel breakfast you could happily linger over for hours. I started with natural yogurt, granola, and fruit compote, followed by a cheese and mushroom omelette so large that I couldn’t finish it. Not a bad start for a day of exploring Northern Ireland’s legendary Causeway Coast.

Cancelled plans

Back in the room, plans took an unexpected turn. An email arrived from the National Trust:

“You had booked to visit Carrick-A-Rede on 21/09/2025.

Due to high wind speeds we’ve had to close the bridge for your safety and cancel bookings for 21/09/2025…”

The bridge, first built in the 18th century by salmon fishermen, dangles almost 100 feet above the Atlantic and sways even on calm days. In weather like this, it becomes too dangerous. Disappointing, but understandable. Plus we had already been on a previous visit.

Giant Causeway and stories

With our next destination now brought forward, we drove to the Giant’s Causeway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site steeped in myth and geology. Legend says the giant Finn McCool built it as a path to Scotland, but in reality it’s the result of volcanic activity some 50–60 million years ago. We walked the Red Trail, which rewards you with sweeping coastal views. The weather played its part: a few light showers followed by bursts of sunshine and rainbows arching over the basalt columns.

As we paused to take in the view, we fell into conversation with an older Irishman who had stopped to take pictures. He took one of us, then we did the same for him. With a grin, he told us a story from his youth in the 1970s. He and a friend had once tried to climb the near-vertical cliffs above the Causeway. Halfway up, they realised they’d bitten off more than they could chew. Going up was impossible; going down was worse. They attempted to descend but quickly lost control, sliding and tumbling until they crashed onto the path below — narrowly missing the sheer drop to the sea. “We were young and foolish,” he said, shaking his head with a laugh. “Could’ve been the last thing we ever did!” His tale was a reminder that this wild landscape is as dangerous as it is beautiful. When we left him he was contacting his friend to check that the incident actually did take place, as he said time was playing tricks with his memory. We will never know the answer but a great story nevertheless.

We continued up the Shepherd’s Steps and continued the walk back to the Coastal Car Park. By the time we returned to the car, the heavens properly opened—but somehow we’d timed it perfectly whilst sat in the car.

Back to Bushmills

The afternoon belonged to Bushmills. First, The Bush House — a pub brimming with laughter, characters, and Guinness poured to perfection. Alan, the barman, kept spirits high and even offered us doughnuts from a mysterious box left by a local woman. He joked that she might be trying to groom him! Guinness in one hand, doughnut in the other, we felt right at home. Another travel moment that will stick with us.

We left Bush House to head for the distillery. I was drawn by the mouthwatering smell of cheese drifting from across the street. I crossed over to find Maegden, a little shop making gourmet toasties. We split one between us: sourdough with a blend of cheeses, ham, and mustard. Gooey, tangy, crunchy perfection.

Another visit to the Distillery

Next came the Old Bushmills Distillery, founded in 1608 and proud to be one of the oldest licensed distilleries in the world. The 1608 Bar was bustling, but we managed to enjoy another whisky flight before John picked up a couple more bottles to add to his growing collection.

We rounded the afternoon off with another Guinness at the Bush House, which was busy with locals, then returned to the hotel for dinner. The Irish beef tartare wasn’t quite right and had to go back. It was swiftly removed from the bill, but the main course redeemed things. We’d had a day full of shifting plans, unexpected treats, and coastal charm. Sometimes the best travel days are the ones that don’t go exactly to plan. By the end of the night, full and happy, we retired to our room, ready for another day. Tomorrow we were heading back to Belfast.