Very Early Start, A Very Danish Day

The alarm went off at the unsociable hour of 4:00 a.m., dragging us from sleep in anticipation of an early flight from Humberside to Amsterdam, with a connection on to Copenhagen. We got ready, still half asleep, grabbed a quick cuppa in the hotel breakfast area, and made our way to the airport.

Humberside was as quiet as you’d expect at that time — after all, this was the only flight departing. Check-in and security were a breeze, and before long we were boarding our KLM flight. The captain cheerfully announced that it would be just 35 minutes in the air, instead of the usual hour — barely enough time for a snack. Sure enough, no sooner had we unwrapped our KLM-branded coconut macaroon and sipped a little water than we were descending into Amsterdam Schiphol.

A short bus transfer took us to the main terminal, where it was crowded as usual. Schiphol never seems to sleep. Luckily, as our onward connection was approaching, we were ushered to the front of passport control and made it to the gate in time. It took just over an hour on this leg of our journey. There was no need for passport control when we got to Copenhagen. We ordered a Bolt taxi (costing around £25) which took us to our hotel, 71 Nyhavn Hotel. We checked in but our room wasn’t ready, so we left our bags and headed out.

Royal Guards at Noon

The hotel receptionist had been very helpful and told us that there was a changing of the guard taking place at midday, some 15 minutes away. We headed straight for Amalienborg Palace, home of the Danish royal family. The square is striking: four identical Rococo palaces arranged around an elegant octagonal courtyard, with the equestrian statue of King Frederik V in the centre. 

The guards, known as the Den Kongelige Livgarde, march from their barracks at Rosenborg Castle through Copenhagen’s streets to Amalienborg, then perform the ceremony in the courtyard. If the Queen or Crown Prince is in residence, the ceremony includes a full band and the guards wear red uniform. Today, they were dressed in their tall bearskin hats and crisp blue uniforms, The Royal Guard marched in with flawless precision.

Lunch in True Danish Style

We wasted no time diving into a traditional smørrebrød Danish open sandwich lunch at Palægade Restaurant. According to our server, the Danish way is to start with herring — so I did, choosing red pickled herring with rhubarb, rose hip, crème fraîche and onion. Then came the steak of minced beef, cooked rare and topped with a classic garnish and egg yolk. Rustic, elegant, and very, very Danish. A great recommendation from our hotel receptionist.

Wandering Copenhagen’s Streets

We strolled through Kongens Nytorv (The King’s New Square) — an elegant open plaza with some beautiful gardens in the centre — before calling into Hviids Vinstue, Copenhagen’s oldest wine bar. Hviid’s is more than just a place to sip Danish Classic beer; it’s a piece of living history. Over more than 300 years, it has seen the city endure fires, wars, and occupation, while serving as a gathering spot for artists, writers, and everyday Copenhageners.

A Birthday Surprise and a Short Rest

By now, it was nearly 3:00 p.m. — perfect timing for our official hotel check-in. Our bags were already in the room, waiting for us alongside a thoughtful surprise: a chilled bottle of cava to celebrate my upcoming birthday. After a quick toast, we took a much-needed nap to recharge for the evening ahead.

Evening Adventures: From Mermaids to Fine Dining

First stop: the Little Mermaid statue. I’ll be honest — it’s underwhelming. But still, it feels wrong to visit Copenhagen without saying hello to her.

After that, we popped into the Old English Pub, a cozy spot that felt straight out of London, before heading to the FishMarket Restaurant for dinner. The food was incredible:

Starter: Ceviche of seabass with avocado, grapefruit, red onions, and chipotle.

Main: Baked hake with chanterelles, polenta, kale, hazelnuts, and browned butter.

Dessert: A perfect crème brûlée, paired with a glass of chartreuse verte.

A Day Well Spent

Copenhagen gave us everything: history, food, culture, and a dash of birthday cheer. And this was only day one.