NI Day 1 Belfast 050821

After sailing from Liverpool-Birkenhead on the late night Stenaline Edda ferry last night, it didn’t seem long before John and I were woken from our slumber by the 0530 tannoy. We were expected to be in our car for a prompt departure at 0630. A car parked near us on deck 9 caused a bit of a blockage because of engine problems, but the organisation of the crew meant that we were soon on our way.

The Titanic Hotel Belfast was only a fifteen minute drive from the ferry terminal, so on arrival we spoke to one of the concierge about having breakfast there, which set us up for the day. The Wolff grill is reference to Harland and Wolff, the shipyard where the ill-fated RMS Titanic was built.

Once we were fed and watered, we got suitably dressed for the weather as it was absolutely teeming down with rain. The beauty of having the car meant that we didn’t have the worry of baggage allowances like when we fly with certain budget airlines, so we had plenty of wet weather gear packed.

The walk into the city was roughly thirty minutes but it took us a while longer as we stopped to read about the heritage of the docks and the shipyards along the way.

Along the Maritime Mile, there are many references to Harland and Wolff, a shipyard that was responsible for building White Star Line ocean liners, including the Olympic-class trio: RMS Titanic, RMS Olympic and RMS Britannia.

The “Belfast Buoys” are a local landmark that were originally donated in 1983 to Belfast City Council by the Commissioners of Irish Lights. Originally in Cathedral Gardens, they were moved to their new location in Abercorn Basin in 2019 following restoration.

There are also glass panels that were placed in the area, to commemorate scenes from the “Game of Thrones”.

Leaving the Maritime Mile, we crossed the Lagan Weir Footbridge that led us into the main part of the city.

We walked through the city, finding many points of interest whilst dodging the rain.

Joy’s Entry, where there are a few bars, including Jailhouse and Henry’s

We headed towards the Linen Quarter, where there is quite a lot of rejuvenation of the area taking place.

At pub opening time, we headed to Robinson’s Bar. It was established in 1895 and advertises itself as a “spit and sawdust” typical Irish bar with five different rooms. We were in the room called Fibbers but it was very quiet. The barman gave us the impression that he didn’t want to be there, or us to be there(?!?), so we left after one drink.

Our next quick stop was a bar called Sweet Afton. The bar was very quiet but the staff were much friendlier. I tried a local Irish lager before heading off to the next establishment, the creme de la creme of Belfast bars, The Crown Liquor Saloon.

The Crown Liquor Saloon is an absolute gem. It dates back to the 1880s and was a Victorian Gin Palace. Standing on the corner of Great Victoria Street and Amelia Street, it is difficult to miss.

It is decorated in elaborate tiles with stained glass windows on the outside, with carved ceilings, ten wooden booths, or snugs, and original gaslights inside. The snugs were designed for customers who didn’t wish to be seen during their visits in Victorian times. Each snug has a letter, labelled individually from A to J. Each one is equipped with a bell that still works, and would have been used to attract the attention of the staff. There are metal plates on the wooden panelling that would have been used to strike matches. I envisage that, in normal times (pre Covid), this place would be heaving, but it is now practising social distancing rules and it is actually nice to have the space and the booth to yourself!! Nicholson’s own the pub and sells great local ales, whiskies and other spirits. Food is also amazing, with a good choice of sandwiches and hot and cold meals. This place is a must-visit but booking is recommended – I heard the waitresses turning away so many people at the door.